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Beauty Edit · Skincare

The skincare routine, in the right order.

Good skin is four steps done consistently, not ten steps done once. Here's the order they actually go on, and the part nobody tells you: of those four steps, only two reward paying more. The other two were solved at drugstore prices years ago, and the industry would rather you didn't know.

The four steps, in order

Every routine, at every price, is the same short list: cleanse, treat, moisturise, protect. Apply thinnest to thickest, water before oil. Morning is cleanser, a water-based serum, moisturiser, then sunscreen last. Night is cleanser, one treatment (a retinoid or an acid, never both the same night), then moisturiser. That's the whole architecture. Everything below fills those same four slots; what changes is which shelf you're standing at.

Starting from nothing

If you own no skincare at all, build here and stop reading the rest. This is the whole routine from the drugstore aisle at Ulta, and not one part of it is a compromise. A CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser (around $16) to wash without stripping, The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc (about $6) as the treat step, CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion (around $14) to seal it, and a La Roche-Posay Anthelios sunscreen for the one step you can't skip. Four products, dermatologist-boring in the best way, and a dermatologist would sign off on every one.

You already own the basics

Then upgrade exactly two things: the cleanser, because you use it twice a day and texture is most of the pleasure, and the sunscreen, because the best one is simply the one you'll reapply without arguing with yourself. Farmacy Green Clean balm to melt off the day (around $36), a vitamin C serum to treat, First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream (about $38) for the moisture step, and Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen — the one that feels like nothing, which is exactly why people keep wearing it. The sunscreen alone justifies the swap.

You're treating something specific

Pigmentation, fine lines, a dermatologist's instruction — this is the one case where the expensive bottle is doing something the cheap one can't: staying stable enough to still work in month six. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic is the famous one (about $182) and it earns the number by not oxidising into uselessness the way cheap vitamin C does. Pair it with Tatcha The Rice Wash to cleanse, a rich moisturiser to finish, and EltaMD UV Clear — the sunscreen dermatologists quietly wear themselves. Two of these four get used down to the last drop, which is the only honest way to judge a jar.

The two steps that reward paying more

If you take one line from this page: cleanser and basic moisturiser are solved at any price; sunscreen and vitamin C are not. A $16 cleanser and a $60 cleanser do the same job — the difference is packaging. But sunscreen prevents the damage everything else tries to reverse, and vitamin C is the active where weak formulas fail fastest. Get those two right and the other two genuinely stop mattering.

Questions, answered

What order do you apply skincare?

Thinnest to thickest, water before oil. In the morning: cleanser, then any water-based serum (vitamin C), then moisturiser, then sunscreen last. At night: cleanser, treatment (a retinoid or an acid, not both the same night), then moisturiser. Sunscreen is the only non-negotiable step, and it always goes on last in the morning.

How many steps does a skincare routine actually need?

Four does everything: cleanse, treat, moisturise, protect. The ten-step routine is a marketing invention — most people see better skin from doing four steps consistently than from doing ten inconsistently. Add a fifth step (an exfoliating acid or a retinoid) two or three nights a week once the basics are a habit.

Is expensive skincare worth it?

For actives, sometimes; for basics, almost never. A drugstore cleanser and a drugstore moisturiser do the same job as their $60 counterparts — the formulas are close and the difference is packaging. Where price can buy something real is in stabilised vitamin C and well-formulated retinoids, which are genuinely harder to make well. Spend there, save everywhere else.

What's the one product worth spending money on?

Sunscreen you'll actually reapply, and after that a stable vitamin C serum. Sunscreen prevents the damage every other product tries to undo, so the best one is the one whose texture you don't hate. Vitamin C is the active where cheap formulas oxidise fastest, so a stabilised one like SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic earns its price by still working in month six.