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The rips were drawn before they were made.

Nobody wore these in. A pair of jeans that arrives already ruined was ruined on purpose, by a person with a marker and a diagram, and then by a machine repeating that diagram a few thousand times. That is true at every price, and it is not the scandal it sounds like. The only question worth asking is whether the diagram was drawn by someone who has looked closely at how denim actually dies.

It dies in specific places. The front of the thigh, where the cloth folds every time you sit down. The knee, and usually half a hand above the joint rather than on it, because the fold lands where the leg breaks and not where the bone is. The seat, the hip a phone lives against, the hem where it drags under a heel. Damage anywhere else was placed for a photograph. Symmetry is the other giveaway: matching holes at matching heights on both knees means a template, and no pair of legs wears out evenly. The fading has to agree with the damage as well, which is the part that separates a good diagram from a lazy one. Whiskers off the fly, honeycombs behind the knee, colour lifting where the abrasion is heaviest. A pair blown out at the knee but flat and even in shade everywhere else was made by two departments that never spoke.

What the money buys, past the diagram, is a hole with something holding it together. Look into a rip on an expensive pair and there are usually pale warp threads still bridging the opening, or a fine mesh sitting behind it, so the hole stays roughly the size it was sold at. A cheaper pair is more often cut clean through, and the third time a heel goes into it on the way down a stair the rip runs and keeps running. Whether an opening holds its size is what separates a jean still recognisable in two years from one that has become a different garment by spring, and it is the single thing to check with your fingers before buying, at any price.

The piece

Dsquared2 Dsquared2 642 Distressed Jeans — distressed slim-fit jeans
Distressed slim-fit jeans

Dsquared2 — Dsquared2 642 Distressed Jeans

$685at Eraldo

Find it for less

Purple Brand Purple Brand Dropped Slim Fit Destroyed Jeans in Light Indigo — distressed slim-fit jeans

Purple Brand — Purple Brand Dropped Slim Fit Destroyed Jeans in Light Indigo

$188— Under two hundred dollars against six hundred and eighty-five, from a label whose whole business is destroyed denim, and one that puts the damage where a body would put it, which is the part cheap distressing usually gets wrong. The trade sits in the cloth and the finishing. Denim in this range generally carries more stretch, so it hangs softer and lets go at the knee sooner, and the openings tend to be bound less carefully, which is exactly what decides whether a rip stays the size you bought. The cut is a dropped slim rather than the tighter Italian line, easier to wear and considerably easier to sit down in. If you want to find out whether you actually like living in ripped denim before spending seven hundred dollars on the question, find out on this pair.

at Bloomingdale's

Style it with

Vince Vince Milano Sweater Tee — tee
Tee

Vince — Vince Milano Sweater Tee

$149at Bloomingdale's

Where it goes

Ripped denim needs one hard, plain, undamaged thing in the outfit to argue against, and a reversible belt that settles the black-or-brown question does that job in a single buckle.

A clean sneaker is the obvious answer underneath these, which is what makes the slip-on that stops torn jeans reading as teenage the more interesting one.

And since the distance between $188 and $685 of destroyed denim comes down almost entirely to finishing, the same jean at two very different tickets covers how those gaps get built.

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