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Find a piece · Footbed loafer

You are buying the sole. The loafer is packaging.

Birkenstock spent a century and a half selling one idea, and it was never a shoe. It was a contoured footbed — an arch and a heel cup shaped like the underside of a foot instead of like a flat plank — and every silhouette the house has ever put on top of it has been a delivery mechanism. Sandals made the name. The loafer is the same argument wearing something you can take to an office.

That is a stranger proposition than it looks. A conventional loafer is built to flatter the shoe: sleek last, thin sole, and your arch left to negotiate on its own. The Naples inverts the priorities, which is why it reads a little more substantial through the middle than a dress loafer does. If you have ever made it to 4pm in beautiful shoes and started planning your route around how far the car was, you already know what that trade buys.

Not every wardrobe wants it. A shoe that puts comfort first announces the decision, and that is a fair thing to weigh before spending on it.

The piece

Footbed loafer

Birkenstock — Naples Loafer Flats

$165at Bloomingdale's

Find it for less

Donald Pliner — Naolin Leather Loafers

$91— 45% less, and honest about what changes: this is a conventional leather loafer, so you get the leather and the shape and you give up the footbed that is the entire reason to buy the Naples. Worth it if you want the look for a desk job, wrong if you wanted the sole for a city that makes you walk

at Bloomingdale's

Where it goes

The office-hardware version of the same shoe is the loafer that replaced the pump.

For a leaner last with the toe doing the talking, an almond toe splits the difference.

And the flat that trades the sole for a lower profile is the ballet flat, argued on leather.

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